Method and means for curling hair



1935! v. J. GENTILE METHOD AND MEANS FOR CURLING HAIR I 12 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed May 11, 1933 w w x17 /6 4 I q IIIL 1 v. J. GENTILE METHOD AND MEANS FOR CURLING imn Filed may 11, 1933 12 Sheets-Sheet 4 Dec. 29, 1936. v. J. GENTILE 2,066,146

METHOD AND MEANS FOR CURLING HAIR Filed May 11, 1933 12 Sheets-Sheet 5 Dec. 29, 1936.

V. J. GEN TILE METHOD AND MEANS FOR CUR IJING HA IR I2Sheets-Sh'eef s Filed Mayll, 1933 III Dec. 29, 1 36.

V. J. GENTILE METHOD AND MEANS FOR CURLING 1mm Filed May 11, 1933 12 Sheet et 8 Mum- D 1 y. J. GENTILE METHOD A ND MEANS FOR cunmue HAIR Filed May 11, 1936 12' Sheets-Sheet 9 6 INVENTO? BY I ATTORNE;

v. J. GENTI LE METHOD AND MEANS FOR CURLING HAIR Dec. 29; 1936.

12 sheets-she t 10 Filed May 11, 1933 Filed May 11, 1933 12 sheets-su ar 11 Dec. 29, 1936. ,v. J. GENT'ILE METHOD AND MEANS FOR CURLING HAIR Filed May 11, 1933 12 Sheets-Sheet 12 ".mww I Il /171 2. M l n Patented Dec. 29, 1936 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE 24 Claims.

The invention relates to a novel and useful method and means for curling or winding hair and more particularly to such method and means for automatically winding curls on the human head in the process of permanent waving.

Objects and advantages of the invention will be set forth in part hereinafter and in part will be obvious herefrom, or may be learned by practice with the invention, the same being realized and attained by means of the instrumentalities and. combinations pointed out in the appended claims.

The invention consists in the novel parts, constructions, arrangements, combinations and im- 5 provements herein shown and described.

The accompanying drawings, referred to herein and constituting a part hereof, illustrate one embodiment of the invention, and together with the description, serve to explain the principles of the invention.

Of the drawings: I

Fig. 1 is an elevation of a winding mechanism and stand embodying the invention, parts being broken away to show the interior of the stand;

Fig. 2 is an elevation of a completed curl on the human head as produced by the invention;

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary elevation showing the starting of a curl;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged longitudinal central section of a preferred form of the winding mechanism;

Fig. 4a is a continuation of Fig. 4 showing the winding end of the device;

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary elevation of the winding head showing a partially wound curl;

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary top plan of the winding head;

Fig. '7 is an elevation on a smaller scale of the winder, showing the preferred form of tapesupply means;

Fig. 8 is a top plan of Fig. 7 Fig. 9 is a section taken on line 9-9 of Fig. 8; Fig. 10 is a side elevation of the winding head opposite to that shown in Fig. 5; 5 Fig. 11 is a top plan taken on Fig. 10;

Fig. 12 is .a cross-section on line l2-l2 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 13 is a section on line l3-I3 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 14 is a section on the broken line I ll l 50 of Fig. 4a;

Fig. 15 is an elevation of the guide nut shown in Fig. 4;

Fig. 16 is an end elevation of the winder as seen from the left in Fig. 4a;

5 Fig. 17 is a fragmentary longitudinal section Fig.22 is a fragmentary enlargement of the 11") winder barrel and tape-supply means shown in Fig. 18; .Fig. 23 is a section taken on line 24-24 of Fig. 22, but showing the tape casing cover open;

Fig. 24 is a section on line 24-44 of Fig. 22 1 5 Fig. 25 is a detail perspective view of the base of the tape casing shown in Fig. 22;

Fig. 26 is a similar perspective view of the lid for said tape casing;

Fig. 27 is a similar perspective of a plicated bale or charge of tape;

Fig. 28 and Fig. 29 comprise a central longitudinal section of a modified form of winderguiding means and tape supply; N

Fig. 30 is a longitudinal side elevation of the 25 mechanism shown in Fig. 28;

Fig. 31 is a detailed perspective View of a reel of tape and a holding clip therefor;

Fig. 32 is a section on line 3232 of Fig. 30; V

Fig. 33 is a partial longitudinal section of a 30 modified form of winder;

Fig. 34 is a section on line 34-34 of Fig. 33;

Fig. 35 is a fragmentary elevation similar'to Fig.5, showing the hair-smoothing brush; and

Fig. 36 is a view similar to Fig. 14, showing 35" the brush.

The invention provides a new, improved, very efficient and simple method and means for winding, coiling or curling living hair on the human head preparatory to the steaming and dressing 40" thereof in the process of permanent waving. By the invention it is possible to wind growing tresses upon permanent waving mandrels orcurling rods with great speed, accuracy, precision and uniformity. The curls produced are tighter, stronger and more shapely and symmetrical than any which can be produced manually by the most skilled hairdresser, while the speed and uniformity of winding cannot be approached by hand methods nor by any known device for facilitating manual winding.

The invention eliminates the need for the services of highly skilled hairdressers in the winding or curling of the hair and also precludes the possibility of faulty and non-uniform results due to human inaccuracy and lack of skill and/or strength in the hair-Winding operation' By the invention the hair is wound entirely automatically in a mechanically predetermined form which is perfectly symmetrical and technically correct from the hairdressing standpoint. The invention not only reduces the hair-winding operation to a purely mechanical step, but the curls produced thereby are actually technically superior and more beautiful than any which can be produced by the most careful and skillful manual winding.

Nevertheless, the hairdresser is not deprived from exercising his individual skill, experience and artistry because his judgment insquaring off the head (i. e. determining the quantity, of

hair to be wound in each tress) and his knowledge of the nature and texture of the hair tobe treated are still exercised to the full.. In fact, the invention provides superior facilities for reducing'z'the'onerous and routine steps of the hair- 'Waving-process to a minimum, thereby freeing the hairdresser to employ his time and thought in treating the individual problems of the particular hair being waved. The invention very greatly reduces the time and labor required to curl: ahead of hair, the winding operation being wholly mechanical, as stated, and therefore requiring'substantially no exertion, skilled manipulation or careful regulation on the part of the operator. The time consumed in curling a head of hair is but a small fraction of that required by manual methods, while the comfort and safety of the customer and the profits of the hairdresser are proportionately increased.

The invention provides a method and means whereby the hair-Winding operation can be performed with maximum accuracy, efficiency and safety by comparatively unskilled operators. An

especially important object of the invention is to provide an automatic hair-winding method and mechanism which is entirely safe, fool-proof and comfortable. It is impossible for the device embodying the invention to twist, pull or entangle the hair in spite of the fact that the hairwinding means is positively driven by an electric motor drive at about 250 R. P. M. A tress is rapidly and automatically curled or Wound around a curling rod or mandrel fastened to said tress near the scalp, but the curling rod is locked or positively prevented from turning with the winding means so that no twisting movement can be imparted to the rod nor the roots of the hair by said winding means. Furthermore, the winding movement can be maintained only by conscious and positive control of the operator so that the machine automatically stops whenever the operator releases his controlling grip. These safety features not only protect the customer from injury, but add greatly to her comfort and peace of mind.

A further object of the invention is to provide a method and means for automatically and positively binding the wound hair to the curling rod throughout the length of a curl. The hair is tensioned, wound and pressed tightly against the curling rod in a smooth, continuous andpositive movement and is immediately bound tightly in place by a following binder, such as a strip of tape or the like which is likewise tensioned and pressed against the wound tress by the automatic winding means. The overlapping and binding action of the tape prevents the ends of the individual hairs from straying and springing out of place,

so that the entire curl is automatically maintained in its wound form.

The invention provides an improved method and means for supplying the binding tape or strip for the individual curls during the winding thereof. The binding tape is fed from a substantially continuous supply thereof, which is carried by the winding mechanism, whereby the winding device is equipped with sufficient tape to easily wind all the tresses upon a head having more than the average amount of hair. Tape shearing means are also provided for severing lengths of tape from the continuous supply after a length thereof has been Wound upon a curl.

The'present preferred embodiment of the invention broadly comprises hair-engaging and guiding means adapted to successively wind tresses helically about individual, interchangeable curling rods or mandrels attached to the tresses near the scalp of the customer. The'individual" tress is wound from its root end outward about its respective curling rod, the hairengaging means automatically wrapping the tress around and along the rod with a continuous movement. The hair is wound under predetermined tension so as to give it the desired stretch and the stretch and tension are preserved throughout the length of the curl by pressing the stretched hair tightly against the curling rod and binding it with tape as hereinafter described. Each curl is wound in conformity to 'a standard guide having a technically predetermined helical configuration, the pitch of the helix being varied to compensate for the decreasing thickness of the tresses toward their outer ends. However, the device is also capable of -selective operation independently of the fixed g-uidinga'means, whereby all or a portion of the curlmay be wound in a coil having its pitch manually controlled by the operator, thereby to vary a part or all of the curl configuration from thatof-the standard fixed guide.

'Ihe curled'hair is automatically Wrapped or bound. with a binding strip of tape or other suitable binding material. As hereinbefore described, the tape overlaps the turns of hair on the rod, thereby binding down any stray ends of the shorter hairs which might tend to escape from the; wound tress intermediate its ends. The binding tape is subjected to the same tension and pressure as the hair itself and thereby conforms intimately to the outer surface of the wound curl. Said tape is preferably supplied from, a, substantially continuous supply source mounted on and traveling with the hair-winde hagmeans, thequantity. of tape carriedby the winding means being more than suiiicient to wind all-the tresses inthe average head of hair. The winding deviceis provided with suitable guides for leading the tape to the point of application on the curl and with a cutter for shearing the tape after a curl has been'wound.

ln accordance' with the invention, the hairguiding and winding means is preferably rotate-d automatically about the curling rod or mandrel by a 'motorized drive. Briefly, a flexible shaft, driven from a motor, is connected to a driving gean located in that part of the winding device held in the'hand of the operator. A hand-operated clutch connects the driving gear to a driven gear on the rotating part of the winder thereby to impart the desired rotary movement. The c lutchqis adapted to operate only when positively actuated by the operator, being normally urged toits disconnected position by spring means.

The embodied means for preventing turning of the curling rod with the winding means during the winding operation comprises a pilot rod or key which engages the hollow interior of the interchangeable curling rods. Said pilot rod preferably has a non-circular cross-section which coacts with the similarly shaped interior of the hollow curling rod. The pilot rod is keyed or otherwise fixed to a non-rotating part of the winding mechanism, such as the clutch body, which is held stationary in the hand of the operator. By virtue of the construction described, the curling rod and the hair roots attached thereto are prevented from receiving any twisting or pulling movement from the rotating part of the winding mechanism, thereby obviating harm or discomfort to the customer. In actual practice the winding operation is far more comfortable and safe than the best hand wind because the winding motion is absolutely steady, continuous and it cannot twist or pull the hair or scalp.

In operation the winding device is successively connected to the various curling rods which are attached to the various tresses in the head of hair in order to curl a tress about its curling rod and is detached from the curling rod when the curl is completed, bound with tape and the tape severed from the wound length. The winding device is thus rapidly and successively connected to the various curling rods which cooperate as part of the winding mechanism during the winding of their respective curls.

The present invention is an improvement on the method and means for curling hair disclosed in my prior co-pending application Serial No. 467,530, filed July 12, 1930.

It will be understood that the foregoing general description and the following detailed description as well are illustrative and exemplary of the invention but are not restrictive thereof. Various features of the invention are susceptible of considerable modification while retaining the basic principles thereof, some of such modifications being disclosed herein and others of which will be obvious to those skilled in the art.

Referring now in detail to the present preferred embodiment of the invention, illustrated by way of example in the accompanying drawings, a separate rigid curling rod or mandrel l (Figs. 2, 3, 4, 4a) is provided as a core for the winding of each tress in the head of hair to be permanently waved. As embodied, the major portion of the rod is a hollow cylinder having a smooth uniform exterior and an outside diameter of about one-fourth inch. In the preferred form, the cylindrical portion i of the rod is preferably provided with a non-circular and preferably square bore 2 (Figs. 4 and 13), said square bore being adapted to cooperate with the winder pilot rod as hereinafter described. The hollow curling rod may also be perforated throughout all or a portion of its length, as and for the purpose disclosed in my co-pending application Serial No. 634,097 filed September 21, 1932.

Means are provided for securely fastening a tress to the lower or scalp end of the curling rod i and for facilitating the starting of the curl thereon. As shown, the lower end of the rod is tapered to provide a shank 3 of gradually decreasing cross-section. Said tapered shank facilitates starting of the curl about the rod and provides a curl of more uniform exterior diameter, the decrease in diameter of the rod compensating for the greater thickness of hair near the scalp end of the tress. The means for fastening a tress to the end of the rod near the scalp comprises a head 4 having a hair-retaining shoulder 5 which justs fairly abruptly from the reduced end of the shank 3. A narrow slot or notch 6 extends axially of the head 4 to provide means for securing a piece of string or the like to the rod, thereby to tie the hair firmly and easily to the end of the rod as indicated in Fig. 3. The head 4 may be flattened as shown and provided with curved indentations 1 to facilitate gripping of the hair thereon, or if desired, the head may be a slotted cylindrical member. Preferably, the tapered shank 3 of the rod is hollow down to or near the end thereof.

In utilizing the invention, it will be understood that a number of curling rods or mandrels of the construction hereinbefore described will be provided and attached individually to the various tresses on the squared off head. Thereafter, the tresses will be wound about their respective curling rods by the winding mechanism hereinafter described. Referring now to the embodied means for winding a tress helically from its root end outwards about the attached curling rod i, said means can be conveniently classified into several major sub-groups of mechanisms as follows;

(-a.) The hair engaging head, comprising devices for slidably gripping and tensioning the hair and pressing it against the curling rod.

(1)) Mechanism for guiding the hair-engaging head along and about the curling rod in a predetermined helical path, comprising the grooved guide barrel, the guide-engaging nut and the non-rotating pilot device.

(0) Mechanism for driving or rotating the winder.

(d) Mechanism for wrapping the wound tress with a binding strip of tape or the like. In the following description, the various sub-groups of mechanisms will be described in the order given.

A.-The hair-engaging head Means are provided for engaging or frictionally gripping the free portion of the tress to wrap or wind same around and about the curling rod. As embodied, said means comprise two principal hair-engaging members for slidably gripping and pressing the hair as it is wrapped about the mandrel, said members being fixed to a block or head [6 which is rotated along and about the mandrel in a predetermined helical path as hereinafter described. One of said principal hair-engaging members comprises the pivotally mounted presser foot i ii which has a hair-engaging and smooth-. ing face ii adapted to lie resiliently against the periphery of the curling rod 6 when same is mounted in the winding mechanism. The hairengaging face 'I! is suitably curved to overlie and press down the tress as it is being wound about the curling rod. The hair-engaging presser foot iii has a compound yielding movement with respect to the curling rod and the hair being wound thereupon. As shown in Fig. 4a, the member it comprises a hollow block which is pivotally mounted at E2 on one arm I3 of a lever i i. Said lever I 4 is pivotally mounted at l5 in the main block 16 of the Winder head, the latter being suitably recessed as shown in Fig. 4a to receive pivot i5 and the portion I8 of the L-shaped arm [1, i8 of the lever M.

The arm 13 of lever i4 is spring-urged so as to force the presser foot 10 toward the hair on the curling rod. As shown, arm E1 of the lever M projects along the winder at a small angle to the axis thereof so as to'provide an actuating handle for the presser foot. The means for exerting spring pressure on the lever comprises a plunger mounted in a barrel 2! which extends axially from the block N5 of the winder head. A suitable helical spring 22 lies within the barrel 2| and the hollow plunger 20, thereby urging the plunger outwardly or toward arm 58 of the lever. The outward end 23 of the plunger engages a shoulder 24 on the arm l8 of the lever I4, said shoulder thereby having a sliding and rocking movement with respect to the face 23 of the plunger. It will be clear that the plunger normally forces the member iii toward the curling rod I, but that the presser foot it may be moved away from the curling rod by depressing the handle ll of the lever Hi. Accordingly, the presser foot it has a major pivotal movement toward and away from the curling rod by virtue of its mounting on the arm 13 of lever M. In Fig. 4a. the handle I! is shown partially depressed.

In addition to the major pivotal movement described, the hair-presser foot it] has a minor pivotal or rocking movement with respect to the curling rod, thereby making said presser foot substantially self-alining or self-adjusting with respect to the surface of the curling rod in order that the presser foot may conform intimately to the thickness of the hair beneath it on the rod. Arm 1 3 of the lever is recessed at 2? and 28 on either side of the pivot l2 and helical springs 29 are mounted in said recesses. The projecting ends of said springs lie against the opposite inner face 30 of the hollow member iii, thereby providing a resilient three-point mounting of said member H3 with respect to the arm it of the lever. It will be clear from the foregoing that the curved face I! of presser foot it is urged toward the hair on the curling rod, but that said face H is capable of self-adjustment with respect to the hair beneath it so that a very intimate and complete sliding pressure may be exerted upon the hair and against the curling rod.

The curve of face H of the presser foot ii] is such that the hair is both urged and smoothed against the curling rod as it is wrapped thereabout. As will be clear from l4 and 16, the rounded face H is provided with a trailing edge 34 which tends to follow and hug the hair and give it a final smoothing and pressure.

Means are provided for guiding the hair to the presser foot it and for concurrently subjecting said hair to a stretching or tensioning action. As embodied, a guide member it extends axially from the block it of the winder head, preferably diametrically opposite to the presser foot It. A relatively short and deep hair-guiding groove ll (Fig. 5) is provided in the outer face of said member it, said groove extending at a slight angle to the axis of the member 4i), thereby to guide the hair on to the curling rod I at the proper angle for effecting the desired overlapping helical wind of the tress. The hair is confined in the groove by the upstanding sides thereof which form a flange or shoulder 42 at the end of member if and a simi lar shoulder 43 along a median section of the member 40. The bottom of the groove ill is suitably curved to impart the desired smoothness of travel and angle of approach to the hair as it is wound on to the curling rod. The member 5i; may be fixed to the head block it by binding screws 44, as shown in Fig. 5, or it may comprise an integral portion of said head block it.

Means are provided for suitably compressing, tensioning and stretching the hair as it passes through the guide groove All and on to the curling rod i. As embodied, a hair-tensioning roller 48 is provided for compressing the hair against the bottom of guide groove Said roller is pref erably constructed of relatively soft and yielding material, such as sponge rubber, which Will give a gripping and compressive action very similar to that of the human fingers.

Means are provided for normally urging the roller &3 against the tress as it lies in the groove 4i. Said means are also adapted to permit bodily removal of the roller from the guide groove 4| so that the tress be inserted into the guide groove preparatory to winding. As embodied, the tension roller 518 is carried by a movable arm 5%, said arm being pivotally mounted in the winder head it by the pivot pin 5i. A suitable axial channel 52 for receiving the roller and arm til extends through head member it and the length of member the flange it being suitably recessed shown in 16. The embodied means for resiliently urging roller 38 towards the bottom of guide groove ll comprises a spring plunger 55 which bears against the short bevel end of roller arm 5t. Said spring plunger 55 is substantially identical in construction with plunger 2% hereinbefore described. As indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 5, the roller arm 5b may be lifted bodily out of its channel 52 and snapped into a radially-extending position. The end of plunger 55 will then bear against the face 51 of arm 53 and will tend to maintain thearm extended in said radial position as the dotted lines indicate. When the roller arm 553 is pushed toward the guide groove ll, the beveled end 56 causes the roller arm to snap'into the position shown in Fig. 4, in which position the spring plunger 55 tends to hold it.

Supplemental means are provided for resiliently urging the roller 8 at a predetermined angle against the hair in the guide trough H, whereby will be maintained at the desired angle c l and the tensioning and feeding means will adapt themselves to the quantity and thickness of hair in the trees. As embodied, the roller if; is pivotally mounted within the roller arm or housing and is provided with spring means for urging the roller ward the guide groove 4! at the desired predetermined angle. The roller is rotatably journaled in a iJ-sliaped cradle 60, said cradle being pivotally moilnted at its center on the pin iii so as to have a rocking movement within the hollowed out portion of roller arm 50. They outer end of roller is spring-urged toward the bottom of guide groove ll by helical spring 62 seated in a recess 63 in the cradle and bearing against the inner face of the roller arm 50. This construction causes the outer end of roller &8 to bear against the guide groove ll with relatively greater force than its inner end, thereby tending to keep the tress against shoulder i3 and at the predetermined feeding angle as indicated in Fig. 5.

It has been found'in practice that a roller, covered with rubber or similar" resilient material and mounted as shown, provides a smoothing, compressing,tensioning and compacting action which is exceedingly eflicacious in winding the hair. However, other devices may be used, as for example, a pad of sponge rub! er having no rotary motion has been found to be very effective and it will be understood that various other modifications and equivalents may be provided in lieu of the preferred form here shown.

Means are optionally provided for combing and evenly spreading the hair as it is drawn into the guide groove ll and beneath the tensioning roller' lfi. Such means preferably comprise a line of comb teeth 65 at the mouth of guide groove 4|. These comb teeth straighten out any snarls in the tress just before it is tensioned and wound on the curling rod. Furthermore, the teeth 65 provide means for distributing the tress within the guide groove it so that a tress may be bunched into a part of the guide channel or spread uniformly thereacross as desired or as a brush frame Bl which is swiveled on the block ill of the presser foot and extende therefrom so that the curved end 68 lies opposite the curling rod l and directs the bristles between it and the presser foot. As shown in Fig. 35, the tress passes between the bristles and the curling rod before it reaches the presser foot. Accordingly, the bristles of the brush smooth down and follow the hair and prevent any stray ends from springing up and escaping or creeping out of the general line of the curl. The pressure of the presser foot against the bristles causes them to spread out and mingle with the hairs of the tress, thereby providing a pressing surface which conforms intimately and flexibly to the surface of the tress and which serves to hold and guide the short ends of the hair at that point. This feature of the invention is of great importance because it causes every hair in the curl to maintain the desired configuration imparted to it by the winder and the tensioning roller. The hair is thus held in exactly the desired feed angle as it travels from the roller until it is caught and bound by the tape, as hereinafter described.

B.The winder-guiding means The invention provides means for guiding the hair-engaging head hereinbefore described in a predetermined helical path along and about the curling rod, thereby to wrap or wind the hair on the rod in a curl having the desired configuration. As embodied, the winder head block I 6 is fixed to a relatively long cylindrical tube or barrel iii havinga helical guiding groove H cut in the inner surface of its wall throughout the greater part of the barrel length. The lower part of the barrel 19 (i. ethe part adjacent the head it) is of greater interior diameter than the grooved part ll, being adapted to fit over the cylinder '12 projecting from the head block IS. The barrel til is fixed to head block M by a tight press t on to the head cylinder 12 and seats against an annular shoulder '53 in the block IS.

A set-screw i i (Figs. 5, 6, 10 and 11) may be provided for securing the barrel Hi to the head cylinder 12.

As will be clear from Figs. 4a and 14, the head block it is provided with a central cylindrical opening 15 for permitting free entry of the open end of curling rod 1. A ballbearing IE is mounted-just within the opening 15 so as to form a rotatable bearing fit between the surface of the curling rod l, and the interior face of head cylinder 12. As showngthe retaining ring 1-! of the bearing is seated on the shoulder formed between the ma'in body of block l6 and the head cylinder 12. i

As already stated, the relatively long and thick portion of barrel Ill is provided'witha helical winder-guiding groove H cut-in the interior face of the tube wall. Asshown, said guide groove 10 varies constantly in pitch (i. e. the number of turns per unit length) from one end to the other. This variation in pitch is to compensate for the gradually decreasing thickness of a tress toward its .outer end. The guide groove H causes the winder head to travel in a path having the configuration of the groove itself and thereby to.

wind the hair. in a curl having said configuration. Accordingly, the groove causes the curl to be wound in a relatively wide helix near the scalp while the curl becomes more and more nearly circular as the wind approaches the end of thecurl where the hair is relatively thin. The final or bottom turn 89 of. the guide groove iscircular, so that-the ends of the tress may be wound in a .completecircle' upon themselves about. the

curling rod. This construction insures that the end of the tress vwillbe completely wrapped about the curling rod regardless of the tress length, as the end portion of thetress may be given as many circular turns as are required, This construction alsoprovides the tresses withtight ringlet ends which are so desirable inghairdressing and which ordinarily can not be made with the usual helical winding.

The invention provides means for holding the curling rod I from turning with the barrel 10 and the hair-winding head as they rotate. As embodied, a pilot rodai is mounted axially of the barrel i0 and extends the length thereof. The end 82 of said rod is mounted so as to hold the rod stationary with respect to the rotatable barrel H! as hereinafter described under section C, so that the pilot rod 8i forms a fixed axis about which the barrel and winding head may rotate. The pilot rod 8| is square in cross-section and isadapted to fit slidably within the curling rod I (Fig. 13). The freeor unsupported end 83 of said rod is tapered to facilitateentry thereof into the open end of the curling rod. It will be clear that the pilot rod acts to restrain thecurling rod I from rotating, while the winder barrel l0 and winder head It, etc. may rotatefreely about the curling rod. However, the pilot rod permits free axial-movement with respect to the curling rod. It will be understood that the pilot rod and bore of the curling rod may have other non-circular cross-sections than the squareshape shown, the purpose of said construction being merely to prevent relative rotation of said members.

Means are provided for effecting the desired cooperaiton and guiding action between the curling rod I, the pilot rod 8| and the helical guide H hereinbefore described. As embodied, a guide-engaging :follower or finger 88 is adapted to engage in the helical groove H, thereby to forcethe barrel TB and the winder head I6, etc.

The latch normally liesiwholly within said recessso that the .end ofv follower 88'is flush with the periphery of the nut and the latch is held in said retracted position bya leaf spring 92a .square bore 95 which fits slidably on the square pilot rod. The nut has an outer diameter slightly less than the interior of barrel l0 and is thus adapted to travel the lengthof the barrel I0,

but is prevented from rotating therewith by its engagement with the pilot rod.

As stated, the nut is adapted to engage the openend of the curling rod I when same is inserted into the barrel. Accordingly, the nut is 'counter-bored'zat 96..to'-pr0vicle a cylindrical recess for .slidably receiving theend of rod I. Engagement of the rod I with the nut is adapted to effect guiding cooperation between the curling rod and the helical groove 1 I.

As embodied, latch 89 is provided with an inwardly projecting dog or tongue 91 which is adapted .to be forced outwardly by introduction of .the end of the curling rod. As shown in Fig. 4, when the end of the rod is introduced intothe recess '96,. it first encounters the beveled face of dog 91, thereby causing latch 89 to rock gradually outwardly against the spring 92a. When the end of the curling rod is fully seated in the recess 96, the latch 89 will have been forced outwardlysufliciently to cause complete engagement of the follower 88 in the helical groove II and then the dog 91 will firmly grip the end of the curling rod.

It will be clear that thedog 91 of the nut will engage the end of the curling rod only when the latter can be shoved home into the recess 96. Accordingly, initial engagement of the curling rod and the nut is normally effected only when the nut has been stopped by the face 98 at the end of barrel I0. In that position the curling rod can be shoved home and the follower 88 will automatically engage in the first turn of the helical groove II. In Fig. 4 and Fig. 4a the parts are all shown in assembled position, with the curling rod having just'been'inserted into the nut. In this position the head 4 of the rod projects just beyond the ends of the winding-head members I0 and 40, sothat the rod is in position for receiving the first lap of the tress, asindicated in Fig. 3.

It will be noted further that the initial turn 99 of the helical groove is substantially circular, that is, it has no pitch or lead along the barrel. This construction permits the follower'88 to enter the groove at substantially any relative angular position of the curling rod and the barrel. If desired, said groove 99 may be made com- 'pletely circular, but to avoid a sharp shoulder in the thread or grooveII, the groove 99 is usually stopped short of -a complete circle (Fig. 17). Attention is also-called to the shape of the follower 88 as shown in Fig. 15. Said follower is set at a slight angle to the axis of the nut "and the edges thereof are slightly rounded. This construction permits the follower to enter and contact easily throughout its travel in the groove II, the angle of the follower being substantially an average of the lead angle of the groove.

C.-Winder drivindmechanism guide barrel l0 and theattached hair-engaging devices, thereby to windthe tress about a curling rod I which has been inserted into the barreland seated in the nut 90 as shown in Fig. 4. As embodied, the driving force is transmitted from a power-driven flexible shaft I00 to a ring gear I0I through a hand-controlled clutch to be hereinafter described.

Referring first to the driving connections between barrel 10 and the ring gear IOI,-the' end of barrel I0 is seated in a cylindrical socket I06 formed in one end of the cylindrical block I05. Set-screws I01 serve to fix the end'of the barrel within said socket. A second cylindrical member IIO surrounds the opposite reduced end of block I05 and is fixed thereto by clamp bolts II I,

which. bolts also serve to seat bearing retaining ring II2 against the end of block I05. The

member H0 is cored to form an enlarged cylindrical shell II3 extending away from the end of block I05. The ring gear IOI is seated against a shoulder formed by the annular recess I I4 at the end of said shell H3. The ring gear is keyed to the shell H3 at II5, thereby to impart driving force to member IIO. It will be clear that any driving motion imparted to the ring gear will effect rotation of member H0 and block I05 therewith, thereby transmitting rotation .to the barrel 10.

Driving force is imparted to ring gear IOI by the wide-faced pinion I I8 which is connected to the end of the flexible drive-shaft I00 as followsz-The pinion I I8 is formed-near one end of a relatively long cylindrical member I20, the opposite end face I2I ofwhich is toothed to. form the driven member of a clutch. Clutch face I2I is adapted for driving engagement with the toothed face of driving clutch member I22 formed on the end of cylindrical member I23. The opposite endof member I23 is hollowed to receive the splined end I24 of the drive-shaft I00.

The hereinbefore described driving mechanism isall mounted within and supported by a cylindrical supporting block I30 which forms an operating handle for the entire mechanism. Block I30 is cored at I3I to receive the clutch bushing I32, said bushing being fixed to the block I30 by set-screw I33. The outer end of the bushing projects from the block and is screw-threaded at I34 to connect with the threaded coupling I35 at the end of the flexible shaft housing I36.

The cylindrical clutch-driving member I23 is rotatable within bushing I32and similarly the The opposite reduced end I25 of member I20 isjournaled in a supporting plate I40, which plate is fixed tothe face of block I30 by clamping bolts I4I. Plate I40 also serves to receive the fixed end 82 of pilot rod 8|. As shown, the end 82 of said pilot rod is tapered and has a square cross-section which seats in a-conforming opening in the plate I40. (Fig. 12.) This construction serves to hold the pilotrod stationary with respect to the block I30 and the other non-rotating parts of the mechanism, thereby insuring that the pilot rod will serve as a fixed axis for the rotating barrel I0. 3

The barrel-supporting block I05, the block H0 and the ring gear IOI are all rotatably supported upon the pilot rod 8|. As shown, the terminal portion I of said pilot rod is cylindrical and one end of said cylindrical portion rests in a bearing bushing I46 adjacent the face 98 of block I05. A ball-bearing M1 is mounted between the cylindrical portion I45 and the inner cylindrical surface I48 of block I05, whereby the block I05 and its associated rotating members will turn freely about said cylindrical portion I45. Suitable retaining collars I 49 and I50 are provided on the portion I45 for confining the inner race of the ball-bearing.

Additional external support is provided for carrying the rotating parts from the supporting handle block I30. A cylindrical shell I55 is fixed to the surface of block I30 by screws I55. Said shell projects along and surrounds the outer surface of member I I and forms a bearing surface therefor. A flanged annular guard I51 is screwthreaded to the end of shell I55 and overlies the enlarged shoulder portion of block H0, thereby forming a substantially complete closure for the driving mechanism.

Referring now to the clutch mechanism for effecting driving connection between the clutch members I2I and I22:A floating pin I60 extends axially within the hollow interiors of members I20 and I23 and supports a helical spring II. Said spring acts to force apart the clutching faces so that driving motion can be transmitted by the clutch only when the spring is compressed. Balls I52 are provided at either end of the spring as thrust bearings for the clutch mechanism. A clutch-actuating lever IE3 is pivotally mounted exteriorly of the shell I55 and an arm I64 of said lever projects through an opening of the shell and bears against a shoulder I65 on the clutch member I20. It will be clear that when the lever I63 is depressed, the member I20 will be moved axially toward member I23 to efiect engagement of the clutch faces and that such driving engagement will be maintained only while the lever is so depressed.

Driving force may be imparted to the flexible shaft I00 in any suitable manner and from any suitable power source. In the preferred form of the invention, the flexible shaft is motivated by an electrical motor through suitable driving connections and a form adapted for beauty shop practice is illustratively disclosed in Fig. 1. As shown, an electric motor I is mounted in a portable base housing Ill and provided with suitable lead wires I12. A winder-supporting standard I13 rises from the base and is provided with a laterally projecting arm I14 near its upper end. A vertical driving shaft I extends part way through the hollow standard I13 and at its lower end is drivingly connected to the motor shaft through suitable reduction gearing I15. One end of the flexible shaft I 00 is coupled to the upper end of vertical shaft I15 at a convenient point I11, thereby providing a convenient operating radius for the winder. A handle I18 for operating the motor switch may be conveniently located nearby.

Means are preferably provided for balancing the winding mechanism so that it will remain suspended at any desired point with respect to the head of the customer being wound. As shown, the winder handle I30 is connected by a bail I80 and a cord I8I to a counter-weight I82 which may be raised and lowered within the hollow standard I13. The cord runs over suitable pulleys I83 within the arm I14. If desired, the arm I14 may be pivoted for swinging movement with respect to the standard I13. It will be understood that many obvious changes in the design and construction of the stand and windersupporting means may be made without departs from the principles of the invention and the form shown in Fig. 1 is simply illustrative of those general principles.

D.-Tape supply and winding means As hereinbefore stated, the invention preferably embodies means for winding or lapping a flexible binding strip about the tress as it is being wound on the curling rod. In practice a very thin and porous fabric tape having a relatively loose weave has been found to be most desirable for this purpose. However, other binding agents might conceivably be substituted and it is desired to cover all equivalent means such as strips of paper, flannel, wire and the like. The term tape as used herein will be understood to broadly cover all such equivalent means. The tape may be impregnated with waving chemicals which will aid in the waving operation when moistened and steamed adjacent the hair.

In accordance with the invention, tape supply means are provided which will preferably carry a substantially continuous supply of tape on the winding mechanism, i. e. enough to complete the winding of an entire head of hair. Various modified forms of tape supply means are disclosed, but the simplest and present preferred form is shown in Figs. '7, 8 and 9. As embodied, a reel of tape I00 having a hollow core I3I is rotatably mounted on a stud or spindle I92. Said stud projects from a ring-shaped bracket I93 which surrounds and is fixed to the exterior of the barrel 10, preferably near the driving end thereof. A circular guard plate I94 is fixed to the stud I92 and forms a backing for the inner face of the reel of tape. A guard plate or bar I 95 is loosely supported on the stud and serves to retain the outer face of the reel of tape. A nut I06 is adapted to be screwed onto the threaded end I91 of the stud to secure the plate I95 and reel of tape on the stud and to provide the desired braking friction on the reel. If desired, a spring-snap connection may be provided in lieu of the threaded nut, or other suitable attaching means for the reel of tape may be substituted. It will be clear that when one reel of tape is exhausted, the nut I90 and plate I95 will be removed and the empty core replaced by a fresh reel.

Suitable means for guiding the free end of the tapev 200 from the reel to the hair-winding head.

comprises a threading slot I in a flange 202 fixed to block I6 of the winding head. From said slot the tape passes to devices for guiding it on to the curling rod I where it covers and binds the hair just after same has been laid on the curling rod (Fig. 5). The principal tapeguiding devices are mounted on the block forming the presser foot I0 hereinbefore described. As shown in Figs. '7 and 10, the tape is first passed over a curved guide bar 205 which extends from a bracket 208 screwed to one side face of member I0. A guard finger 205a serves to hold the tape from sliding off the bar 205. A diagonal plate 251 isspacedfrom bar 205 to form a slot 208 through which the tape is threaded as shown in Fig. 7. The tape is then brought up over the diagonal edge of plate 201 and beneath a guard finger 205 which lives slightly above the face of the plate. It will be clear that the diagonal plate 251 acts in the manner of the turner bar employed generally in web-feeding practice to direct a moving web at right angles to its original course. A tape groove 2I0 runs around the outer portion of the presser foot and guides the tape from the turner bar 201 entirely aroun-d blade 215 to shear the tress.

the presser foot and on to the curling rod as shown in Figs. 5 and 18. The outer end of the presser foot is provided with a flangeor guard member 2H which keeps the tape in the groove and prevents it from slipping off the end of the presser foot, and, if desired, a guard finger 212 of wire or the like may be extended across the tape groove adjacent the bottom edge of the presser foot as shown in Fig. 5.

It will beclear that the tape is fed beneath the presser foot Ill and pressed against the hair just after the latter has been laid upon the curling rod from the hair-guiding groove 4|. Consequently, the tape is subjected to the pressing and stretching action of the presser foot l and receives the same tensioning and compression as the hair beneath it. The tape is intertwined with the hair, but is of sufficient width to overlap the curled tress entirely or substantially entirely throughout its length, so that the finished wound tress appears as shown in Fig. 2. In starting the tape around the tress, it may be introduced into the winding operation at any desired point throughout the length of the curl. Preferably, the tape is started with the hair at the scalp end of the curling rod and, as shown'in Fig. 3, the tape is given a partial turn beneath the first turn of the tress as the latter is laid on the curling rod and into the winding groove M. The tape thus acts to bind the entire curl. It catches and holds any stray short hairs which might tend to escape or spring up after the presser foot had gone by and it also completely preserves the tension and stretch imparted to the hair throughout the length of the curl. When the brush 66 is used, it holds down such stray hairs until they are completely trapped beneath the tape.

It will be understood that the interwinding and tensioning of the tape with the hair, especially at the root end of the curl, serves to produce a very firm binding action which will be maintained even if the winding operation is temporarily stopped. The completed curls are held under the tension given to them during the winding and retain said tension during the entire permanent waving process. In fact, the application of 10- tion, steam and/or other moisture to the taped hair during the waving process actually causes an increase in tension because the moistening of the tape makes the fabric swell and increases the binding action on the hair.

The invention preferably embodies means for severing the wound length of tape from the web after it has been wound about the tress to the desired extent. As embodied, a knife-blade 2l5 is mounted on the upper surface of the presser foot iii and is adapted to shear the tape as it lies in groove 210. A fixed ledger plate ZIB is mounted in groove 2N and cooperates with the The blade is normally held retracted above the web 200 as it passes over the ledger plate 2I6 and along the groove 210, and for this purpose the blade is pivotally mounted at 2H and a coil spring 2! holds the blade away from the ledger plate. A corrugated thumb seat 2l9 is provided on the back of the knife for facilitating pressing down the knife to cut the tape when desired.

The free end of the tape may be fixed to the curling rod in any desired or suitable way and in practice a simple spring clip 220 (Figs. 2 and 21) may be slipped on to the end of the tape and around the curling rod. As indicated, the winding operation is usually continued for one or more turns after all the hair has been wrapped upon ward the scalp.

the curling rod, thereby completely enclosingthe tress within a circular wrapping of tape at its upper end.

Means are preferably provided for loosely covering and holding the free end of a tress while it is being wound on a curling rod, thereby to prevent entangling and snarling the tress in the tape or rotating mechanism before it passes through the winder head. As embodied, a curved gate or guard 23!) is pivotally mounted on the outer surface of the winder barrel Ill (Figs. 22, 23 and 24). Said guard 23!) is spaced from the surface of the barrel so as to form a sheath for the hair between the barrel surface and the arcuate guard. One longitudinal edge of the guard is pivotally mounted on an axle 23! which extends parallel to the longitudinal axis of the barrel and spaced from the periphery of the barrel, being journaled in a plurality of pedestals 232. A helical spring 233 is wound about a portion of the length of the axle 23l and urges the guard 230 towards the surface of the barrel. An arcuate plate 234 is fixed to the surface of the barrel beneath the guard 230 and preferably forms the support for the axle-supporting pedestals 232, which may be pieces struck up therefrom. Two or more lugs 235 struck up from the edge of plate 2% provide support for the free end of the guard and form a partial closure for the hair sheath. Gate 23!! may be lifted by lip 236 to permit insertion of the end of a tress which will lie freely therewithin. The gate or guard 230 is preferably slotted to expose the tress toview and the ends thereof are open to permit free passage of the tress axially of the barrel.

Operation The operation of the present preferred embodiment hereinbefore described is briefly as follows: The scalp of the customer is squared off into individual tresses and to each tress is tied the head of a. curling rod l,as indicated in Fig. 3.'

The opposite open end of one of said curling rods is then inserted into the opening 15 in the head of the winding mechanism, the. presser foot Ill preferably being elevated to clear the opening. The end 83 of pilot rod 8| enters and registers with the open end of the curling rod and the pilot rod and barrel 1!! are together pushed to- The nut 90 rests loosely on the end of the curling rod, the pilot rod sliding freely through the nut. When the wall 98 at theend of the barrel meets the nut the recess 96 in the nut is forced over and onto the end of the curling rod. The follower 88 is thereby forced outwardly and seats itself in turn 99 of the helical guide groove H. In that position, the head 4 of the curling rod extends just beyond the outer end of the presser foot l0, so that the end of the winding head lies just above the scalp of the customer.

The operator then lays the hair around the shank 3 of the curling rod (Fig. 3) beneath the brush 66 and lays the free end of the tress in the guide groove 4| of the winder. For this operation, the tension roller 48 is momentarily lifted from the guide groove to the dotted line position of Fig. 5 and is then snapped back to clamp the hair against the guide groove. Next the end of the tape 200 is pulled through groove 2 l 0 and the slack end turned around the curling rod just beneath the initial turn of the hair as shown in Fig. 3. The free end of the tress which projects through the comb teeth 65 is led along the winder barrel and encased beneath the sheath gate 230. 

